The haddock Florentine ($12) across from me, served in a casserole dish and topped with breadcrumbs, was fine. The cream sauce was flavorful, a splash of sherry evident. The fish was not overcooked, despite the heat-confining dish. The dinner entrées include three capellini dishes, I noticed. So if angel hair is going to be the default pasta instead of linguine, the cooking timing had better be consistent.
Desserts include expected items, such as tiramisu, cheesecakes and an amped-up chocolate concoction (“triple-chocolate” cake), but also something I don’t see as often as I’d expect. Bananas Foster ($6) features banana halves cooked in a thin syrup of butter and brown sugar finished by Aspessi with Triple Sec. It tastes as good as it sounds. The dessert, not at all cloyingly, is compelling enough that our waitress said customers have requested straws to get every drop. The chef is partial to Breyer’s vanilla ice cream and says he makes sure that’s the brand served with the dish.
Stella Blues has its heart in the right place — in the kitchen. So over time
it’ll likely pull in the clientele it’s working on deserving. A few more imaginative items on the menu, a few décor touches — and tearing out that carpet — and the East Bay will have another go-to dining spot.
Stella Blues, 50 Miller St, Warren | Tues-Thurs, 11:30 AM-9:30 PM, Fri + Sat, 11:30 am-10:30 pm | major credit cards | full bar | sidewalk-level access | 401.289.0349 |www.stellabluesri.com
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Bill Rodriguez: bill@billrod.com
