Winter destination

By BRIAN DUFF  |  February 16, 2006

The entrées, clearly prepared with great care and expertise, could have afforded to be a bit more experimental. The best was probably a straightforward filet of beef stuffed with crab meat and served with béarnaise. The menu warned that the lamb au poivre was “***Very Peppery***” and it sure was. I expected the brandy cream sauce to mollify the pepper a little but it lost the battle. The crust was so thick on the potato and horseradish-crusted salmon that it was a bit like a fish-stuffed potato pancake. The horseradish was very subdued, giving the whole dish a certain heavy Midwestern plainness. Each entrée came with a terrific sautéed kale and mushroom, and potatoes. The latter seemed a little odd with the salmon.

Though we quibbled with some of Gagne’s choices on the drive home, the overall impression is that we had gone to a place worth quibbling about. The unique building, the expertise in the kitchen, the quality of the ingredients, Gagne’s creativity, and the calm professionalism of the staff make the Robinhood Free Meeting house a Maine destination restaurant worth a winter visit.

Robinhood Free Meeting House | 210 Robinhood Rd, Georgetown | Winter hours: Thursday-Saturday 5:30-8 | 207.371.2188

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E-mail the author:

Brian Duff: bduff@une.edu

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