The Phoenix Network:
 
 
 
About  |  Advertise
Adult  |  Moonsigns  |  Band Guide  |  Blogs  |  In Pictures
 
50bands-gift-prov

Matunuck Oyster Bar

Stellar servings from the sea
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  July 29, 2009

Oyster and clam farmer Perry Raso, whose harvests have become quite popular over the past three years, has taken his livelihood one step further and opened his own eatery: the Matunuck Oyster Bar. It sits on a beautiful cove just north of East Matunuck State Beach, where many a restaurant has come and gone, but this time, there's a large outdoor deck in addition to the sun-filled dining rooms inside.

This space has always had the feel of a summer cottage, with windows that look out onto boats and birds. Spruced up with booths and a large U-shaped oyster bar, it feels like it's a keeper. We met friends from New York there for lunch last weekend and, with their band of seven, we had a good sampling of the menu.

Before our arrival, there had been some explanations to the younger of the five boys about the raw bar, within sight of us and, as we contemplated lunch choices, five-year-old John pulled on his mother Donna's arm, and said: "Mommy, mommy, look at the man killing oysters!"

Their dad, Ken, homed in on a dozen Rhode Island raw oysters ($1.75 each): Matunuck from Potter Pond, Ninigret and East Beach Blondes from Charlestown Pond, and Rome Point, from Narragansett Bay. Donna liked the Rome Point best, though they were all pronounced "nice and briney."

Ken also had the pan-roasted littlenecks with grilled chorizo, white beans, tomatoes, and garlic in a white wine broth ($9), and they were excellent.Donna noted that this could be a signature dish for this new establishment.

I think it could vie with the fried oysters, which were the best I've had in a long time, in an oyster po-boy ($11.95) a few weeks ago. Based on that sandwich, Bill ordered an oyster BLT, but was bitterly disappointed at the overcooked oysters — they were either over-fried or held too long under a heat lamp. The same was true for the fries which accompanied my terrific lobster roll ($15.95) and the three orders of fish and chips for Armand, Lionel, and Ken.

The cod in those plates was melt-in-your-mouth delicious, even if that did involve, when I tasted it, pulling the thick beer batter off (just not my thing). The others loved the fried fish. The cole slaw was creamy and tasty.

Donna ordered the field greens salad with grilled shrimp ($13.90) and appreciated the fresh Moonstone Farms greens, the Narragansett Creamery ricotta on the accompanying toast, and the lemon Dijon vinaigrette.

Teenager Paul enjoyed his New England-style creamy quahog chowder ($5.95), though he didn't find the "crispy bacon" listed in the menu. He went off the seafood binge of the rest of the table and tried the portobello burger ($8.95). He was attracted to it by the grilled portabella cap with fresh mozzarella and basil pesto, but he didn't think the taste of the mushroom came through the other flavors.

Another favorite starter that we all sampled was the Point Judith calamari ($8.95), expertly cooked and served with fried capers, spicy mustard greens, and a citrus aioli. Bill and I indulged in some "spicy sriracha wings" ($10.95). Sriracha is a fiery-red Thai hot sauce, and I definitely needed to dip the wings into the cilantro-lime ranch dressing now and again. But they were meaty and delicious.

The other chicken order — chicken fingers ($5.95) — was placed by seven-year-old Michael, who unfortunately had to wait the long-est to get his meal. When he did, he was as impressed as the rest of us by the giant "fingers," and he shared one of them with John, who had picked the mac & cheese ($5.95) — was this a reaction to watching the oyster "massacree"? This dish was penne with a homemade béchamel and cheese — quite fine for an adult appetite, a bit too gourmet for John.

Our food was, with the exception of the overdone oysters and fries, quite wonderful, and we'd go back in a heartbeat. We can only hope, however, that the slow service and poor timing, from kitchen staff through waitstaff, gets polished as the months go by. We want this place to stick around!

Related: Rosinha's Restaurant, Aspire, Review: Shula's 347 Grill, More more >
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
  • Share:
  • Share this entry with Facebook
  • Share this entry with Digg
  • Share this entry with Delicious
  • RSS feed
  • Email this article to a friend
  • Print this article
Comments

Today's Event Picks
ARTICLES BY JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   FRANKLIN SPA  |  August 11, 2009
    You know how some places just seem like they have a story behind them and you keep meaning to stop over the years but somehow it's never the right time of day (diner-type places mostly close by 2 pm)? That's been my relationship with Franklin Spa until I finally placed it squarely in my sights for a trip to Newport last week.
  •   MATUNUCK OYSTER BAR  |  July 29, 2009
    Oyster and clam farmer Perry Raso, whose harvests have become quite popular over the past three years, has taken his livelihood one step further and opened his own eatery: the Matunuck Oyster Bar. It sits on a beautiful cove just north of East Matunuck State Beach, where many a restaurant has come and gone.
  •   BLOUNT CLAM SHACK  |  July 22, 2009
    The scene at Blount Clam Shack on a Sunday summer afternoon is like a well-orchestrated block party: large white tent for keeping out rain or providing shade; long, family-style picnic tables; outside the tent, more picnic tables and beach chairs; a large cooler with bottles of water; and live music from 3-7 pm, often provided by Warren resident Otis Read and friends.
  •   TIME TO DANCE? DANCE. DANCE!  |  July 21, 2009
    Although Island Moving Co. has moved their summer dance concerts inside, after 20 years of battling the elements at outdoor venues around Newport, they have chosen an unusual and historic site — the 1699 Great Friends Meeting House, the oldest surviving house of worship (Quaker) in the city — for Dance? Dance. Dance! (through July 26).
  •   UNITED BBQ  |  July 08, 2009
    Reviewing the dishes at a barbecue eatery feels a bit like judging a family dinner. Most of us have specific expectations of what the meats and the sides should taste like — sensory memories that grabbed us the first time we ate pulled pork or collard greens, and they won't let go.

 See all articles by: JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ

MOST POPULAR
RSS Feed of for the most popular articles
 Most Viewed   Most Emailed 



  |  Sign In  |  Register
 
thePhoenix.com:
Phoenix Media/Communications Group:
TODAY'S FEATURED ADVERTISERS
Copyright © 2009 The Phoenix Media/Communications Group