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Dining

Sweet Tooth Boston’s Mom’s Cinnamon Bun

A twister blows in
February 21, 2007 5:20:19 PM

070223_INSIDE_BUNS

Spirals are the shape of marvel. Consider: tornadoes and whirlpools, conch shells and snails, DNA’s double helix and Tesla coils wrapped around superconductors. Following suit in this parade of wonders is Mom’s Cinnamon Bun. The mother referenced here belongs to David Venter, co-owner of Sweet Tooth Boston, a bakery with pink walls the shade of Glinda the Good Witch’s gown and air heavy with the scent of butter. Among the miniature pies, decadently dense brownies, chunky cookies, and cupcakes topped with elaborate decorations that baker Glenn Quirion calls “bling,” a tray of lemon-butter-frosted cinnamon buns sits humbly. At least, they look humble. Once you start tearing into one of these delights (and tear you will), you’ll realize that Pat Venter’s recipe for the golden-raisin-flecked pastry is closer to the authentic Swedish treat than even Ikea can claim. With its pillowy dough and rich cinnamon filling, it’s a far cry from the dense-as-clay, gooey-as-glue variety you’ll find under fluorescent lights at the mall — and it’s sure to set your taste buds spiraling out of control.

Available for $3.50 at SWEET TOOTH BOSTON, 371 West Broadway, in South Boston. Call 617.268.2555.

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