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Best of Boston 2009

Desserts

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Review: Off the Boat Seafood

Large portions, now served in a larger space
To find Off the Boat Seafood, a South Italian take-out joint that just this winter added a 10-table dining room and a wine list, mainlanders will pass through the Callahan Tunnel and embark on an exercise so challenging it's not unlike finding the Northwest Passage.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 20, 2009
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The Local

New Newton favorite attempts less, achieves more
How many times have I reviewed fried calamari just in the last decade? Maybe 70, 80 times, right?
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 13, 2009
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Flat Patties

Making a virtue of a usually guilt-ridden quickie
A fast-food cheeseburger is like a drunken assignation with a stranger met at a wedding reception: momentarily delectable but often leading to shame, nausea, and possibly even health issues.
By MC SLIM JB  |  May 06, 2009
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Sensing

An old twist for a new French restaurant
I've enjoyed the revival of 1950s-style French bistros, but it's been quite a while since I could review a full-tilt example of 1980s French "nouvelle cuisine," which brought on bipolar reform.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 06, 2009

Everyman

The true taste of Rhode Island
When the history of Rhode Island in the 21st century is documented 50 years from now, it's a good bet that prominent figures will include the restaurateurs, chefs, and restaurant designers who continue to make Providence such an exciting city.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  April 16, 2009
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Bond Restaurant and Lounge

Good small plates and wine — license to kill not necessary
Boy, do these people ever wish they had gone for the James Bond theme instead of the US Savings Bond décor?
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  May 05, 2009

Wiley's Night Shift at Phil's

Culinary creativity, two nights a week
It's one thing when you live in an urban area, and you follow a favorite chef when he or she moves from place to place. But down in the boonies of South County, a lot of restaurant news is word of mouth.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  April 01, 2009
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Jerusalem Pita and Grill

Fresh, kosher, and underrated online
It's important to know your amateur online reviewers. While some are reliable cheap-eats dowsers, a rave from a Chowhound who also adores the Cheesecake Factory loses some credibility.
By MC SLIM JB  |  April 01, 2009
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Ecco Restaurant and Martini Bar

Eastie gets a fine, trendy bistro of its own
An East Boston bistro? Kind of doesn't have a ring to it — especially since we're not talking about Orient Heights or Jeffries Point.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  April 01, 2009
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Really remarkable

Indulge in the truffles at Dean's Sweets
Dean's Sweets, with its Americana name and its modest storefront, does not prepare you for the sophisticated chocolates you find there.
By BRIAN DUFF  |  March 18, 2009
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Thaitation Thai Cuisine

Brown Sugar gets even sweeter
I'm convinced that one of the reasons this restaurant column doesn't get the national readership it deserves is that, I keep raving about owner-chefs like Dusadan Lee Narbanshart.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  March 18, 2009

Señor Flaco's

Tacos and more, with a smile
It's good to see a restaurant with a sense of humor. As well as serving good Tex-Mex chow.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  March 12, 2009
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A taste of Florida

Culinary delights along the coastal corridor
On a recent road trip down the coastal corridor to Key West, I was reminded that one of the best ways to explore the "culture" of a different region is through its food.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  March 11, 2009
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Asana

Fine form and function at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
Luxury dining has long been associated with hotels, but hotel restaurants must walk the line.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  March 04, 2009
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Ghazal Fine Indian Cuisine

A new neighbor tones down the décor and excels in spots
Ghazal provides a variety of dishes that Bukhara (the other Indian restaurant in the area) does not, plus warm service, competitive pricing, and mixed drinks.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 26, 2009

Review: Señor Flaco’s

Tacos and more, with a smile
It's good to see a restaurant with a sense of humor. As well as serving good Tex-Mex chow, Señor Flaco's offers up a good dose of levity.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  February 25, 2009
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Review: Black Sheep

Former firehouse lights small spark
FORMER FIREHOUSE LIGHTS SMALL SPARK
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 04, 2009

Salvation Café

Going strong in Newport
In the world of quick turnovers, Salvation Café, now in its sixteenth year, is a keeper.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  February 04, 2009
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Review: Craigie on Main

Local, fresh, and fantastic
While culinary fads have come and gone, Chef Tony Maws has stuck by his sound principles.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 28, 2009

Cucina Twist

High volume, high quality
In the eight-restaurant empire owned by Bob Pinelli and Steve Marra, Cucina Twist has a special place in the hearts of Wakefield and Kingston residents.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  January 21, 2009

Bacaro

Classy snacks and entrées
Restaurants in food-oriented cities like Providence can be relied upon to beget spin-offs that, like high-achieving children, strive to make their parents proud. Thus was born Bacaro, the highly regarded prodigy that arrived in the spring of 2007.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  January 15, 2009

Spumoni's

Big on family atmosphere
In far eastern Pawtucket, almost Massachusetts, sits a 30-year-old family-owned restaurant that's a great hit with locals.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  January 07, 2009
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Ghazal Fine Indian Cuisine

Far-ranging Indian, served with a smile
Years ago, I brought a date to Boston's oldest Indian restaurant (the bygone Kebab-n-Kurry), promising, "The food's great, but the servers are the surliest bunch you've ever seen — so sullen it's hilarious!"
By MC SLIM JB  |  January 08, 2009
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Johnnie's on the Side

The Front of the House is at the head of its class
This large space has always housed attractive restaurants, despite violating two of Nadeau's laws: Eateth Not Within 1000 Cubits of a Government Institution; and Ditto for Sports Stadia.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  December 30, 2008

Angkor Restaurant

Cambodian with a Khmer accent
There is an interesting story behind many of the recipes at Angkor Restaurant.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  December 29, 2008

European Café

A tasty little getaway
At this time of year, when the weather is messing with us and we don't know whether we're going to romp sand or shovel snow, a restaurant like this can be a lifesaver.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  December 22, 2008

Two Four Two

Italian fare, with a twist
Italian fare, with a twist
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  December 17, 2008
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J.J. Foley's Café

An old standby starts low and aims high
An old standby starts low and aims high.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  December 17, 2008

Mike's Kitchen

A foodie favorite in deepest Cranston
A foodie favorite in deepest Cranston
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  December 10, 2008
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Restaurant Marliave

Introducing a menu that multitasks
The Marliave is 132 years old. It opened as a French restaurant, survived Prohibition as a speakeasy, and at some point became Italian.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  December 12, 2008

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