Boston's grand 19th-century dining room, preserved for a century by Yankee stubbornness (thrift had nothing to do with it), and now restored to ancient glory by Lydia Shire, as though to test whether it can be extremely hip to be extremely square. The best food may be the occasional innovation, like scallop tournedos with pea tendrils, though most will want the classics: lobster Savannah, anchovies Winter Place, calves liver and onions, steak tartar, oysters Gino, sweetbreads Eugenie under glass, and -- alas -- Indian pudding. Dress well and carry a big credit card.

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