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Rare treats

There are foodie consumers and there are foodie creators, but they all appreciate something unusual
By CLEA SIMON  |  December 8, 2008

081212_scorpion_main
Scorpion lollipops from Cardullo's

They've dined you, they've wined you with meals both wonderful and offal. Now it's time to return the favor and give the gift of taste. But as you scout around for that perfect present for the foodie friend, keep one thing in mind. Foodies come in two varieties: those who want to taste the sublime and those who need to create it as well. To illustrate, the former may love that mail-order TURDUCKEN ($129, cajun-shop.com). The latter would prefer the backyard turkey fryer, a few free-range birds, and counter space to go wild.

Shop easy. Plenty of both kinds of gifts abound, often at the same stops. Between spice stores, specialty and ethnic groceries, and the self-proclaimed gourmet outlets, you can find last-minute gifts or put together a menu in the making. Granted, the first of these outlets caters specifically to the would-be chefs among us.

Tickle the tongue
Inman Square's Christina's Spice & Specialty Foods (1255 Cambridge, Street, Cambridge, 617.576.2090), a next-door neighbor to its amazing ice-cream-shop sister, isn't fancy. Most of its spices come in glassine envelopes like the addictive substances they are. But in addition to being a reliable source of hot smoked paprika (or hot, unsmoked, or smoked peppers of a half dozen other varieties), this little storefront is getting into the gift act. PEPPER TOWERS and SALT SAMPLER STACKS ($8.99, five varieties of each) all come tied up with ribbon to allow for some fairly easy tasting. Throw in some truffle oil and you've got the perfect gourmet popcorn pack. Fleur de sel or Hawaiian pink salt? Let your buddies decide.

The goliath of spice mail order, Wisconsin-based Penzey's, opened its Arlington outpost (1293 Mass Ave, Arlington, 781.646.7707) a few years back and still beckons chefs in search of ginger-like galangal or the sweet-sour mahlab (sour-cherry pit). And though it is tempting to look down one's ever-so-sensitive nose at the idea of a Midwestern spice store, Penzey's signature blends make good gifts for those who want to get busy in the kitchen but also want some guidance. Get your foodie friends something they've likely never had, like the ETHNIC MILWAUKEE BOX ($23.49, for four varieties of mixes). The Galena Street mix is particularly nice, a salty-sweet barbecue rub laced with nutmeg. Plus, they pack their gift packages with bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and whole nutmegs as filler.

Not quite ready for Milwaukee? Hit the Eastern Mediterranean with one of Ana Sortun's new OLEANA SPICE MIXES ($12). A beribboned stack of spices, just enough to play with, may contain a variety of peppers or a collection of Egyptian dukkah, tangy za'ater, Persian spice, baharet, and ras el hannouk. These samplers and other goodies are on offer at the Oleana chef's new bakery-café, Sofra (One Belmont Street, Cambridge, 617.661.3101). Add in a bag of sweet-and-salty hazelnuts ($12) or quince marmalade with orange blossom ($7) to complete the treat.

Standby snacks
A little too hands-on? For most foodies, the classics can still enchant. Consider a CHEESE SAMPLER from Formaggio Kitchen (244 Huron Avenue, Cambridge, 617.354.4750), featuring the pick of the day of British, blue, or a dozen other varieties ($65.95 for about two pounds). Of course, an ounce or two of CAVIAR will surely be welcomed as the economy tanks. The Iranian version is a tad difficult to find, since our liberal community frowns on the overfishing of Caspian Sea sturgeon, as well as the accompanying outrageous prices. But the Gourmet Boutique (Westin Copley Hotel, 10 Huntington Avenue, Boston, 617.266.2906) has farmed white sturgeon from California ($79.99/ounce), Russian sturgeon ($99.99/ounce), and delicate wild hackleback ($24.99/ounce) on hand, plus nifty little MOTHER-OF-PEARL SERVING SPOONS ($24) so that your sterling silver won't mar the delightful sea burst of those little bubbles. (Stainless or, heck, plastic works just as well, but doesn't look as nice as a gift.) Cardullo's (6 Brattle Street, Cambridge, 617.491.8888) is showcasing several domestic options, notably THE LITTLE PEARL SPOONBILL PADDLEFISH ROE ($36/ounce). For the ultimate ready-to-eat treat, add in some tiny pre-made snacks from THE LITTLE PEARL BLINI ($6.99). So much nicer than crackers.

Of course, if you're going old school, what about those controversial fatted poultry livers? Despite the recent counterrevolution, overturning laws against the gavage-richened livers, a fresh lobe of foie gras by itself might take too much preparation to be totally gift-worthy, so wrap up a nice slab (or, okay, can, if the stuff's imported) of some creamy rich paté. GOOSE MOUSSE WITH ARMAGNAC ($29.99 for 11.2 ounces) or TRADITIONAL DUCK FOIE GRAS ($40.99 for 2.6 ounces)? This is a question of taste. Do we really have to do it all for you?

Or how about a TRUFFLE? No, not the chocolate kind. The pungent roasted-ping-pong-ball-looking fungi, the Europhiles' version of durian, designed to either make you swoon or gag. For umami addicts, a whole fungi makes a nifty treat. Sure, most of us make do with truffle oil. But a real black truffle ($89.99 for 1.4 ounces at Gourmet Boutique) grated over scrambled eggs turns hot comfort food into haute comfort food. (For those times when fresh isn't available, consider the BLACK TRUFFLE CARPACCIO IN EVOO, $29.99; you get the flavored oil as lagniappe.)

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  Topics: Features , Culture and Lifestyle, Beverages, Food and Cooking,  More more >
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