SAME OUTSIDE: But new energy inside. |
| Francisco’s Blue House Café | 1081 Brighton Ave, Portland | V, MC | Wed-Sat 8 am-2 pm & 5:30 pm-close; Sun 8 am-2 pm | 207.347.6196 |
Last December, we described some of the difficulties facing ethnic restaurants in Portland — in particular a reluctance to sell a lot of alcohol (where restaurants typically make their best margins) given the sad history of drunken white Americans’ treatment of other ethnic groups (see “Drunk to Death,” by Brian Duff, December 22, 2006).For several years Francisco’s at the Blue House Café has been dealing with this dynamic in ingenious ways. The first was chef-owner Dave Mallari’s business plan, in which he kept costs down by renting an existing breakfast and lunch space (the Blue House Café). At night Mallari turned the lights down to transform the bustling sandwich place into a cozy, elegant spot for dinner. Second, Francisco’s did not sell alcohol. You could bring your own wine for a very modest corkage fee — which means people usually stuck to one bottle for a pair and left no more than tipsy. Finally, Mallari, whose heritage is Philippine, created eclectic menus that ranged from traditional Philippine dishes, through Asian-inflected takes on new American cuisine, to Italianish rich-meaty pastas. The formula succeeded, as Francisco’s developed a loyal following (if a small one — it was voted Portland’s Best Kept Secret by Phoenix readers two years in a row).
Now changes are afoot in the little blue house out on Brighton Avenue. Mallari has bought the place and taken over the breakfast and lunch business from Dirk Yeaton. He has also added a full bar and a wine list — handled by new employee Dale who, with his bow tie and tennis sneakers, might be the whitest guy in Maine. Dale is also engaging, funny, and knowledgeable about wine, without a hint of pretension. Any sticker shock you anticipate from the end of BYOB is attenuated by the reasonable prices (under $25) of the short and thoughtful lists he creates. He poured us tastes of three reds, and flattered our palates by approving of our preference for the lightest — a dry pinot noir with soft tannins.
It was a great bottle to go with the range of flavors and textures on Mallari’s menu. Both his calamari and mochiko chicken starters were crisply fried, a lovely golden color, and tender inside — with a terrific tangy and spicy (and garlicky for the chicken) sauce that was not too heavy. Mango beef skewers had the restrained sweetness that comes from fresh fruit rather than a sugary marinade. Scallops came out with a relatively simple preparation in the tiny cast-iron pans they were seared upon, which rested on salty, crunchy, and delicious fried leeks.
My favorite entrees at Francisco’s are the most Asian: a Mongolian hot-pot and the Philippine Pancit Bihon. The hot pot arrives in the kind of large metal bowl with a hole in the center for a sterno flame that is sometimes used for Thai tom-kai soups. The broth is similar to a tom-kai as well, with flavors of coconut milk, tangy galanga, and lime. This soup, served with rice noodles, is less sweet than most Thai versions, which allows the other flavors to sing. The vegetables are fresh and crisp, though you can let them simmer themselves tender right on the table if you choose. The Pancit Bihon is a sort of mixed grill over noodles, with a citrusy fish sauce that does not overwhelm the meat and shrimp.
Mallari’s fondness for putting large servings of meat on top of noodles extends to his more European dishes as well. Pork chops were tender and nicely grilled on top of angel hair pasta, with a sauce that offered a hint of the sour-cream flavor of stroganoff. And while a tender duck breast came with a polenta that was a bit of a mush, a risotto dish was prepared expertly — tender but with a touch of chew, and fatty without being too heavy.
Mallari himself is no fatty, but he is a big enough guy that he will hold his own if the new bar inspires any unruliness. He also seems to be friends with half the customers — Dale and the rest of the staff have to work their way around him when he wanders out of the kitchen to chat up regulars — so he should have some backup. And by offering drinks to back up its strong menu, Francisco’s should have a new formula for success.
On the Web
Francisco’s Blue House Café: www.franciscosportland.com
Email the author
Brian Duff: bduff@une.edu
