Down an uneven brick side street and behind overgrown ivy archways lies the food-truck cornucopia of the SoWa Open Market. A combination farmers' market, craft fair, and antique bazaar, SoWa gathers the cream of Boston's food-truck crop from 10 am to 4 pm every Sunday from May through October. But one standout of the well-trafficked scene isn't a truck at all: Lefty's Silver Cart is actually a small trailer dwarfed by the rolling giants around it. The flavors? Plenty big.
Lefty's once focused on the now-crowded grilled-cheese market, but since a recent change in ownership, it's serving a wider array of seemingly complex but simply delicious sandwiches, all vegetarian and served on the exalted Iggy's bread. A big seller (and one of the few dishes to survive the menu revamp) is the Figment ($7), which combines creamy goat cheese, a generous spread of fig jam, and mixed greens dressed with truffle vinaigrette inside a toasted baguette. The jam's sweetness combats the slightly sour finish of the goat cheese, both blending well with the light vinaigrette. There are a few different textures vying for your taste buds' attention (the jam is studded with seeds), but it's the baguette's crunch that takes everything up a notch.
A bit further out in left field you'll find the Italian Job ($7). Unlike the heist movie of the same name (originally a 1969 British film, but let's cite the 2003 American remake), Marky Mark doesn't come with this sandwich. But maybe he'll make his way back to Boston to try the creation, another baguette stuffed with artichoke hearts, roasted red pepper, black-olive tapenade, feta cheese, and lemon hummus — an unexpected but delicious choice.
Other specialty sandwiches include the Phil ($7), a baguette stuffed with cart-made basil pesto, roasted Roma tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and greens dressed with a balsamic reduction; the Elvis ($6), a Nutella, fluff, and banana sandwich toasted in Iggy's pain de mie; and the Mary Ellen Burger ($7), a portobello burger marinated in Lefty's "steak sauce" with Swiss, caramelized-onion spread, lettuce, and tomatoes on a brioche bun. There are also rotating specials, like the baby Yukon potatoes with truffle oil and rosemary-thyme salt ($3), roasted to a golden brown. It's all whipped up by new owner Erynn O'Neil, who's won fans as the South End Chef, teaching at-home cooking classes and preparing meals in clients' kitchens for parties or even just typical Tuesdays. Expect her to win even more now that she's taken her show on the road.
LEFTY'S SILVER CART is open on Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm at the SoWa Open Market. Check leftyssilvercart.com and @Leftyscart for daily updates and additional locations.