Last year, I nominated Grotto’s ricotta cavatelli as the local entrée best suited to dispel the winter doldrums. Now, though, I think that honor (impending spring be damned) might actually belong to the steakhouse burger at the Lower Depths Tap Room, the new pub just outside of Kenmore Square.
The prospect of discovering the ultimate bacon cheeseburger is what first piqued my interest: beyond being topped with maple-smoked bacon, the steakhouse’s eight ounces of Angus chuck are actually mixed with bacon grease prior to cooking. The first thing you’ll notice, though, is the strong flavor of fresh garlic that’s also used to season the beef. Next come the combined tastes of mango salsa and habanero aïoli, which balance the garlic and charred beef with a striking mix of sweetness and heat. (Memo to UBurger: the Lower Depths really cooks burgers to order, and my medium-rare request produced a crisp exterior and a juicy, admirably pink heart.)
The infused bacon grease, meanwhile, actually plays a supporting role: lingering around the edges, it furnishes an underlying richness that casts the burger’s other flavors in sharp relief. Melted jack cheese rounds out the toppings; lettuce and onion are served on the side — and that’s exactly where they should stay.
Available for $10 at the Lower Depths Tap Room, 476 Comm Ave, in Boston. Call 617.266.6662.
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